One of many wineries in the McLaren Vale region of South Australia, Penny's Hill stands out for its distinctive cellar door and restaurant, housed in a rather elegant tin shed.

The wines at Penny's Hill are made by winemaker Ben Riggs using only estate-grown fruit from local vineyards. The chook lives here, The Black Chook, a very drinkable vegan sparkling Shiraz, as well as more upmarket labels Mr Riggs and Penny's Hill. Tasting is encouraged before dining.

Although 'The Kitchen Door' at Penny's Hill does not advertise vegan options, chef Ben Sommariva is happy to create a separate tastings menu on request.

The seasonal menu showcases local produce and demonstrates creative flair, though some dishes are better executed than others. For example, the lentil salad interestingly includes sweet beetroot baked with maple syrup and cinnamon but is otherwise unexciting, and the mushroom gnocchi uses pleasingly meaty fungi but has a slightly unpleasant peppery aftertaste.

The pickled fennel and orange salad is the standout. Served with wasabi olive oil and lemongrass, sweet bites of orange complement the fiery horseradish and fennel. The addition of tomato and lemon vinegar adds a soft zing of acidity; it's an unusual fusion of flavours that works.

At Penny's Hill, the wines are the star of the show, although the friendly service and fresh produce in the kitchen do well in their supporting roles. And the 'tin shed' itself, with wonderful pastoral views from the dining room, makes a leisurely lunch an enticing idea.

The Kitchen Door at Penny's Hill Winery
Main Street, McLaren Vale
Phone: (08) 8556 4000

WORDS: Lisa Dempster